Characteristics of the route:

Classic style route that takes advantage of the easier steps along the vertical tower. Varied climbing on slabs and dihedrals, also passes a small roof. The quality of the rock is mostly good, but there are still some holds to pay attention to.
It presents VI max - obligatory passages of V+.
The route is equipped with normal pitons and fixes at the belays.

Equipment:

10 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends or nuts.

Directions:

Mountain group: Lastoi de Formin.
Marcella Tower
Slope: West.

Towards the end and lower part of the Lastoi de Formin an isolated tower with a thumb-shaped top distinguishes the Marcella Tower. The tower was named after the great Cortina mountaineer Scoiattolo "Bibi" Luigi Ghedina, who first climbed it.

Approach: about 1 hour.
Along the road to Passo Giau you will notice a road sign on the left indicating San Vito di Cadore, just after the sign is a parking lot from where you can see the tower. By wooded path marked with cairns you reach the steep scree slope that leads straight below the tower. The attack of the route is found by entering 10 meters into the wide gully to the right of the tower.

Descent: about 1.30 hours.
Follow eastward the sharp, brittle ridge to the large plateau. By trail tracks and cairns northward in about 30 minutes to the large stony gully that leads directly to the base of the tower. Return to the parking lot by ascent path.

Report on the ascent route via Paul and Amedeo:

L1 25m IV°+
Start for a few meters up somewhat crumbly wall, then traverse right entering a chimney/dihedral. Stop on grassy terrace.

L2 38m V°+
Challenging start somewhat overhanging to an hourglass, traverse right (small dry tree) to the edge. Continue straight up articulated wall and slant slightly right to belay.

L3 30m V°
To the right of the belay, climb along a series of cracks to below an overhang that is passed to the right (piton with cord).

L4 32m V°+
Nice slab and crack pitch. Keep slightly on the edge until an hourglass. Then straight up to a small overhang with a crack that you climb right. Again by dihedral/crack to gain belay right, on tower edge.

L5 40m V°+
Vertical pitch on the edge with overcoming a small roof and chimney climbing to the belay.

L6 15m VI°
Short but intense pitch on overhanging wall with technical and resistance climbing (piton with cord). Belay on 2 pitons.

L7 50m IV°
Long pitch mostly on slab, straight to the top.

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