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Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo

Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo in the company of Cortina360 Mountain Guides

Climbing is the art of climbing high: concentration, balance, strength, fluency, self-control and technique represent the fundamentals of climbing. A total, deep relationship with the mountain, made of feelings, emotions, friendship with the climbing partner, the mountain guide is the traditional and "historical" partner for climbing.

Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo is pure excitement. The pearl of the Dolomites, like the entire Alpine arc, offers countless climbing routes, both classic and sport, of various lengths and difficulties.

Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo means over 1000 classic and modern routes as well as numerous crags equipped for sport climbing.

It almost always climbs Dolomite, a carbonate sedimentary rock consisting mainly of the mineral dolomite, chemically a double carbonate of calcium and magnesium. This rock gets its name (like the mineral dolomite) from the French naturalist and geologist Déodat Gratet de Dolomieu (1750-1801), who observed such rock in the mountain ranges of the Dolomites.

When planning your vacation experience, therefore, you cannot miss a day dedicated to ' Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo, here you will find historic crags and more recent ones, with short or longer approaches, with overhanging or slab pitches and of a variety of exposures and difficulties.

For those who want to get started, the first step could be to take a few lessons in the indoor climbing gym "Lino Lacedelli," while the ideal outdoor location is undoubtedly THE 5 TOWERS.

Cortina 360 Mountain Guides will know how best to advise you, revealing all the wonders of this discipline, advising you, spurring you on to give your best to reach the next pitch.

For those who already practice the sport, some of the climbing proposals in Cortina d'Ampezzo are in order of difficulty, CLASSIC ROUTES OF IV° GRADE, CLASSIC ROUTES OF V° AND VI° GRADE, and the SPORTS CLIMBING ROUTES.

Safety is always important; to face the mountains in the best possible way, you need to be prepared. Cortina360 Mountain Guides will help you to be properly equipped, will check your equipment with you, and will always check the weather before every activity.

And when you have reached the summit, big or small, all you have to do is admire the beauty of the landscape and the unique color of the rock below you. Climbing in Cortina d'Ampezzo is pure Magic!

CLASSIC MOUNTAIN AND SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES

Together with the Cortina360 Mountain Guides you can climb the "normal routes" that have made the history of mountaineering, which can be climbed even with little experience and training, or you can try your hand at the most difficult and challenging routes, where your arms will be put to the test.The more daring who want to climb as a route leader with due confidence will be able to find their ideal partner, for a rich and fulfilling experience.

We organize daily or multi-day climbing outings staying in cozy mountain huts, so you can accomplish unforgettable feats in the most beautiful and coveted mountain groups of the Dolomites: the Ampezzo Dolomites, Sella Group, Pale di San Martino, Brenta Dolomites, Sexten Dolomites and Julian Alps.

THE 5 TOWERS - APPROACH TO CLIMBING

The 5 Towers represent the ideal terrain in Cortina for those who want to learn the basics of climbing. The variety of routes and crags allow those who want to try their hand at this beautiful activity to take their first steps and learn the techniques for climbing safely. Our Mountain Guides want to accompany you and let you experience the magnificent emotions that only rock climbing can give. This activity is suitable for everyone, children and adults.

The 5 towers, located at an elevation of about 2200/2300 meters, are recognized worldwide for their distinctive shape, a true open-air monument, and can definitely be considered the most important and well-known outdoor climbing gym in the area.

In detail here are the names and some information about the Towers:

  • Torre Grande, the largest tower, formed by three towers: North Top, South Top and West Top;
  • Torre Seconda, composed of three separate peaks called Torre Lusy, Torre del Barancio and Torre Romana;
  • Third Tower, or Latin Tower;
  • Fourth Tower, formed by three different rock teeth of different sizes. The largest are called the Lower Fourth Tower and the Upper Fourth Tower, respectively. At the southern edge of the Upper Fourth Tower stands another tower, the Middle Tower, which, with the advent of sport climbing, has seen the emergence of a number of single-tiers here.
  • Fifth Tower, or English Tower.

On the 5 Towers there are about 220 routes with difficulties ranging from grade 2 to grade 8. We can indicatively report the presence of 18 classic and about 20 modern bolted routes. The routes range from a height of 10 meters up to 190 meters. Torre Grande is definitely the one that has the largest number of multi-pitch routes available. Those who want to approach this wonderful discipline, climbing, will find in the 5 Towers the ideal location. In fact, rock climbing and introductory mountaineering courses are usually organized here. It is the ideal area for children to start climbing, in addition to the wonderful landscape they will be able to have fun in this natural open-air gym.

The 5 Torri can be reached thanks to the chairlift from Bai de Dones to the Scoiattoli refuge or via the forest road that leads to the Cinque Torri refuge from SS48 in Cianzopè. Always check the opening periods of the road and chairlift first. Usually the forest road is closed to traffic in August and there is a jeep shuttle service (for a fee). The best time is definitely from May to November, but with sunshine and if conditions permit, climbing on the south face of the Torre Grande is possible even in winter. Important is not to underestimate the risk of falling rocks throughout the activity.

Our advice is always to be accompanied by Alpine Guides who will be able to accompany you safely, to discover these magnificent climbing walls.

CLASSIC ROUTES OF THE 4TH GRADE

SOUTH EDGE SAS DE STRIA

Route opened in 1939 by Colbertaldo and Pezzotti. 7 pitches of classic and popular climbing on the south edge of Sas de Stria, route suitable for those who want to start repeating routes in the mountains, immersed in a spectacular environment.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° + 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 2 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

VIA DEL BUCO, LAGAZUOI

First climbers yellow flames at an unspecified date. Beautiful and classic climbing on excellent rock on the south face of Little Lagazuoi , definitely one of the most beautiful classic routes on Lagazuoi.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° + 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 2 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.
 

POPENA LOW

Mazzorana and Adler opened this wonderful route in 1936. Classic route on the sunny face of the lower Popena, short route but with some passages not to be underestimated, route suitable for mid-seasons, with a unique panorama and view of Lake Misurina.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° + 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 2 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.
 

PUNTA FIAMES, VIA DIMAI

Classic route opened in 1901 by Dimai, Verzi and Heat. Long route on the south face of Punta Fiames. Logical and fun route, not to be underestimated the length, 15 pitches. Itinerary of enormous satisfaction and achievement of an iconic peak of the Ampezzo Basin.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 3 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.
 

TOFANA DI ROZES, VIA DIMAI

Opened in 1901 by Dimai Verzi and Siorpaes together with the Baronesses Eotvos.Beautiful and classic route over the wall of the Tofana di Rozes through the large amphitheater, it remains a route not to be underestimated because of its length and difficult route to search. Of considerable exposure is the traverse at the exit of the amphitheater.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° - IV° + 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 5 to 7 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.
 

SPIGOLO DIBONA, GRANDE CIMA DI LAVAREDO

Opened by A. Dibona and E. Stubler in 1909. A route of considerable satisfaction that traverses the northeast edge of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo. The route runs on generally good rock on one of the most beautiful mountains in the world a few dozen meters from the famous north face where some of the greatest feats in climbing history have taken place.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV° + 
  • DURATION: Ascent about 5 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

CLASSIC ROUTES OF V° AND VI° GRADE

VIA PRIMO SPIGOLO, TOFANA DI ROZES

Route opened in 1946 by U.Pompanin and A.Alverà. 12 pitches on excellent rock for a development of 450 meters between dihedrals, cracks and traverses.

  • DIFFICULTY: V° + max.
  • DURATION: Ascent about 4 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

THIRD EDGE TOFANA DI ROZES

Opened by A. Alverà and U. Pompanin in 1946. 17 pitches on excellent rock for a development of 700 meters. The majestic environment and the length of the route bring back adventures of the past.

  • DIFFICULTY: IV - V°
  • DURATION: Duration about 6 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price

PUNTA FIAMES, EDGE JORI

F Jori, K Bröske 1909, certainly together with the Dimai route on the same wall represents one of the most interesting routes around Cortina: the good rock, the relative proximity of the wall to the center of town and the sun exposure certainly make it an interesting classic route. 

  • DIFFICULTY: V°
  • DURATION: Duration about 5- 6 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

YELLOW EDGE, SMALL PEAK OF LAVAREDO

The route opened by Triestine climber Emilio Comici and companions in 1933 because of the year it was opened and the degree of difficulty in relation to the aesthetics of the route represents one of the gems of climbing in the Dolomites known to climbers all over the world. Definitely one of the routes to be repeated in the Dolomites.

  • DIFFICULTY: VI°
  • DURATION: Duration about 4-5 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES

LOVE MY DOGS, FORMIN SLABS

Opened by our mountain guide M. Dibona and G. Alexander in 2005,interesting route protected well with bolts on excellent rock on Spiz di Mondeval.

  • DIFFICULTY: 7a
  • DURATION: Duration about 3 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

WAITING FOR THE SUMMIT, FIRST EDGE

Route opened by our mountain guide M. da Pozzo and G. Meneghin. Interesting route opened with fixes from below, characterized by slab climbing on excellent rock, not to be underestimated because of the distance of the protections.

  • DIFFICULTY: 6c
  • DURATION: Duration about 3 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price

THE OLD LION AND THE YOUNG WIMP, FIRST EDGE

  • DIFFICULTY: 6c
  • DURATION: Duration about 3 hours.
  • MATERIAL NEEDED: Helmet, harness, climbing shoes. Material needed for climbing is included in the price.

YOU WANT TO MAKE A RESERVATION OR NEED INFORMATION

Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym

Are you at the LUT? Then we look forward to seeing you at the SCARPA Spin Planet Party! 👟💙! On June 22, from 5 pm at our gym, come and meet Marco De Gasperi and the Scarpa Trail Running Team, special guest Sergio Pereira who will tell about his Patagonia Run. All accompanied by food, drinks and DJ set! 🍻 🪩
Don't miss it, admission is free!

WARNING:

On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.

NOT TO BE MISSED.

On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.