Climbing with the Author, Climbing Routes

Mario Dibona Moro, a well-known mountaineer from Ampezzo, is the author of several of the best-known and most sought-after sport climbing routes in Cortina and the Dolomites, opened either solo or with the help of colleagues or friends who are passionate about rock climbing.

Routes of different levels of difficulty and length that wind through slabs, dihedrons and cracks in environments that are always very beautiful and satisfying. The plotting lines, never trivial, encourage climbing that is always constant and highly satisfying.

During the warm season, Mario accompanies clients and friends to climb the routes he has opened, giving his climbing partner a privileged vantage point, telling anecdotes and revealing "little secrets of the trade."

"It was the late 1980s when the opening of new routes equipped with bolts using the battery drill began. Around Cortina came Eugenio Cipriani, dressed rather flamboyantly, who saw the possibility of opening new routes along as yet unexplored walls. His way of equipping routes, he was sometimes criticized for the excessive number of protections on not particularly high difficulties. A few years later, a young Squirrel from Cortina, Massimo Da Pozzo known as the Mox, also began to open modern bolted routes, trying to put the protections far apart on extreme difficulties. Between these two mountaineers, I placed myself, trying to equip routes of medium difficulty with acceptable safety parameters, offering pleasant climbing. The open routes are mostly equipped with fixes, with safe belays even for an eventual descent. The willingness to put fixes even where a piton might fit is due to the fact that pitons are often removed and stolen by less than noble and rather rude "climbers."

Via Odio la Guerra - 6c max - Lagazuoi southwest face

Six-pitch route opened with Andrea Bacchin, equipped with bolts and chain at the belays. It offers steady, movement climbing on wonderful rock. It is characterized by vertical pitches on solid slab and two overhanging athletic moves. The key pitch is the fifth on beautiful wall with small holds that require precise movements and good use of the feet. The return is from Cengia Martini between the Great War emplacements.

King Arthur route - 6b max - Spiz de Mondeval south face - Lastoi de Formin

Ten-pitch route opened solo, fully bolted. It offers highly satisfying, sustained and very varied climbing on splendid yellow rock. It climbs in a continuous alternation of dihedrals, slabs and overhangs always in total safety for the close protections. The return is by abseil or by panoramic trail.

Paul Amadeus Street - 6th max - Marcella Tower - Lastoi de Formin

Seven-pitch route opened with Armando Nascè and Gretchen Alexander using traditional means such as pitons, friends and lanyards. The route climbs on excellent rock with comfortable and safe fix belays. The climbing is fun and varied and goes over slabs, dihedrals and cracks to the summit from which there is a spectacular view. The return is by easy path.

Via Nikibi - 6c max - Torre Marcella - Lastoi de Formin

Nine-pitch route opened with Gretchen Alexander. The route is all bolted and allows exciting climbing in safety on beautiful compact rock. The key pitch is the sixth, a very technical passage up a vertical yellow-black wall where precise movements are required. From the top of the tower the view is spectacular. The return is by easy trail.

La Belle Époque route - 6b+ max - Marcella Tower - Lastoi de Formin

Seven-pitch route opened solo, fully bolted. The route is characterized by a crack, more or less wide, that starts at the base and arrives at the summit. Continuous climbing of great satisfaction with the sixth pitch overcoming a nontrivial cracked and overhanging section. From the grassy meadow at the top the views are spectacular. The return is by easy trail.

Via I Love My Dogs - 6c+ max - Spiz de Mondeval south face- Lastoi de Formin

Nine-pitch route opened with Gretchen Alexander, equipped with bolts, a few pitons and chains at the belays. The route offers sustained and very varied climbing on excellent rock. Athletic passages alternate with nontrivial ones such as the key pitch on vertical slab and overhanging roof exit. The return is via rappel or scenic trail.

Via Gaudeamus - 6a max - Col dei Bos - Falzarego

Opened solo, the route is eight pitches + 4 pitches of the Ada route to the summit of Col dei Bos. The route is equipped with bolts and a few pitons. Fun climbing on good rock that develops on well gripped slabs and spectacular dihedrals. Descent by easy trail.

Via Parole e Pensieri - 6b max - Torrione Zesta - Tofane

Eight-pitch route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolts and a few pitons with bolted belays. Technical and elegant climbing on good rock on gray-yellow plaques. The key pitch is the last and requires good lengthening to reach the handhold. Descent by easy trail or via cable car.

Via The Wall - 7a+ max - Torre Grande del Falzarego

Eleven-pitch route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Antonio Bettella. The route is bolted and has stupendous overhanging gray and yellow slabs on gorgeous rock. The climbing is very technical and continuous and requires good training. Descent by easy trail.

Via Gugo - 6a+ max - Castelletto di Tofana - Tofana di Rozes

Eight-pitch route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolts and a few pitons on excellent rock. It features slabs, a stunning orange dihedral and a beautiful overhanging crack. The climbing is very fun and leads to the top of the Castelletto from where there is a beautiful view. Descent by rappel and then by trail.

Via Brigida - 6a+ max - Col dei Bos - Falzarego

Six-pitch route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolts and a few pitons on excellent rock. It presents interesting and never trivial pitches among cracks, dihedrons and slabs. The climbing is steady and intense if short. Abseil descent.

Route Mom & Dad - 6c+ max - Gusela del Nuvolau

Ten-pitch route opened solo. The route is equipped with bolts and some pitons. Challenging route with excellent yellow rock requires training and concentration. Continuous climbing between slabs, dihedrons and cracks with the key pitch having a delicate, technical, overhanging traverse to the right. Descent by rappel or trail.

Via Why Not - 6a max - Lastoi de Formin

Eight-pitch route opened solo. The route is bolted and begins with the Priolo route, a long black dihedral that is three pitches long. Halfway up the wall you leave the Priolo is begins Why Not on cracks and slabs for climbing that is always sustained and technical. Return via marked trail.

Via Dibona-Nascè - V°+ max - Torre Grande - Cinque Torri

Five-pitch route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is bolted on excellent rock that is sometimes yellow, sometimes gray. Climbing is fun and varied on dihedral, slab and overhang. Abseil descent and easy climbing.

Peter Pan Street - 5c max - Upper Fourth Tower - Five Towers

Four-pitch route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is bolted on excellent rock. Climbing is fun and technical on placconata. Abseil and trail descent.

Via Caterina - 6 max - Torre Caterina - Lagazuoi

Eight-pitch route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolting and normal pitons on good rock. Climbing follows cracks, dihedrals and slabs. Descent by easy trail.

Via Fante di Cuori - 6c+ max - Piccolo Lagazuoi - Lagazuoi

Eight-pitch route opened with Michele Barbiero. The route is bolted on excellent rock. The climbing is highly satisfying, technical and challenging. Descent by easy path along the Cengia Martini.

Via Los Angeles 84 - 6+ max - Col Bechei Glacis.

Beautiful eight-pitch route that offers fun climbing that follows a nice dihedral and continues with a crack that climbs to the top.

Thriller route - 7a max - Spalti del Col Bechei

Interesting 11-pitch route that offers technical and always sustained, slab climbing among the overhangs of the wall. The rock along the route is spectacular.