
Features:
The route develops on the Torre Grande del Falzarego by overcoming the initial large vertical wall. Technical and challenging climbing always on excellent rock. The last pitch has significantly higher difficulties than the previous pitches of the route, you can still avoid the pitch by crossing to the right over easy rocks.
It presents 7a+ max - 6b obligatory passages.
The route is equipped all with fixes in an excellent manner.
Equipment:
15 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.
Directions:
Mountain group: Fanis.
Torre Grande del Falzarego
Slope: Southeast.
Approach: about 30 minutes.
From the forecourt of the Strobel restaurant take the marked path to the base of the towers. A clear crack divides the two towers; the route begins at the base of the crack on the right side.
Descent: about 1.30 hours.
From the summit descend in a northwesterly direction down a wide 3rd grade chimney (cemented pitons). Pass a small west fork and continue to the parking area via rock jumps and trail.
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Report on the ascent route via The Wall:
L1 35m 6b/6b+
Vertical pitch over small notches, often wet or damp.
L2 25m 6a
Fun climbing on very grippy, solid rock! Small traverse to the belay.
L3 25m 6a+
Always good climbing, a little more vertical than the previous pitch.
L4 30m 6c/A0
Key pitch, challenging and endurance, up notches and holes, possible zeroing. The belay is located just above the large ledge.
L5 35m 5b/6a
Recommended to cross ledge and belay below new wall. Varied pitch in nontrivial oblique to a pine tree on grassy terrace.
L6 20m 6a
Technical movement pitch, finished with bolts deviate right to belay on crumbly ledge.
L7 30m IV°+
Shot in common with Dibona variant on normal pitons.
L8 25m 6a
Nice hole shot on beautiful rock.
L9 35m 6b+
Varied pitch with technical passage at the end of the yellow slab, then difficulties drop to the belay.
L10 30m 7a+/6b
Very difficult and violent pitch in the first part with overcoming a smooth belly with small holds. The rest of the pitch is more climbable but continuous to the belay. The pitch can be avoided by crossing right to the edge (piton), then making a small crossing to take the easy rocks leading to the summit.
L11 25m II°/III°
Easy pitch to top of tower, watch out for possible unstable boulders. Belay on spike.
Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym
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