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Via I Hate the War at Lagazuoi

Route opened on Lagazuoi by Mario Dibona Moro with Andrea Bacchin.

Characteristics of the route:

The six-pitch route is on very nice, compact rock with excellent, secure bolting. The key pitch is suitable for those who can put their feet up flawlessly.
It presents 6c max - 6a obligatory passages.
The route is equipped with fixes in an excellent manner.

Equipment:

14 quickdraws, some webbing.

Directions:

Mountain group: Fanis - Lagazuoi.
Slope: southwest.

The route is located on Mt. Lagazuoi, the scene of bitter battles during the 1914/18 World War. The large west face of the mountain is characterized by a middle ledge known as Cengia Martini. The lower part of the wall offers beautiful climbing on very compact and solid rock, while the second part is completely friable and dangerous.

Approach: about 30 minutes.
From the large forecourt of the Lagazuoi cable car, climb up the ski slope, taking you to the base of the large gray placconade just below the cable line. On the left, near a large boulder, the route starts. You can see the name inscription and an old piton about two meters away.

Descent: about 45 minutes.
Upon reaching the large Martini ledge, follow the path to the right that leads back to the cable car parking area.

 

Report on the climbing route via I Hate War:

L1 35m 5b
Slab pitch with small delicate overhang before the traverse to the left. Be careful not to continue straight on old bolts!

L2 38m 6a/b
Nice slightly sloping slab with a technical passage a few meters after the belay. Halfway up the pitch (normal piton with lanyard) climb straight up again for a few meters and then veer right to the belay.

L3 15m 6a+
Short pitch with overcoming a well gripped and protected roof.

L4 40m 6a/6a+
Pitch that is mostly on slab, up to a small ledge with a technical passage on small holds. To reach the belay there are 2 gravelly meters.

L5 28m 6b+/6c
Key pitch of the route with pure slab climbing, small notches for hands and very little for feet. A cord in a bolt can become useful despite the fact that the protections are close together.
(In wet conditions you can avoid the pitch by passing to the right and turning over the large boulder, with easy climbing.)

L6 40m 6a, a 6c/A0 passage
Difficult overhanging free start, can be zeroed with the first close bolts. Nice the rest of the pitch that deviates a bit to the right and left, creating friction on the rope, so lengthen the quickdraws.

YOU NEED INFO OR WANT TO MAKE A RESERVATION

Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym

đ—ĸ𝗛𝗛𝗠𝗘𝗚𝗔 𝗧đ—ŧ𝘂đ—ŋ - đ—Ĩ𝗲𝘁đ—ĩđ—ļđ—ģ𝗸 đ—¯đ—˛đ—šđ—Žđ˜†đ—ļđ—ģ𝗴đ—ĸ𝗛𝗠𝗘𝗚𝗔 đ—¯đ—˛đ—šđ—Žđ˜†đ—ļđ—ģ𝗴

𝗧đ—ļ 𝗮𝘀đ—Ŋ𝗲𝘁𝘁đ—ļ𝗮đ—ēđ—ŧ 𝗱đ—ŧđ—ē𝗲đ—ģđ—ļ𝗰𝗮 𝟭đŸĩ đ—ŧ𝘁𝘁đ—ŧđ—¯đ—ŋ𝗲, đ—Ŗđ—Žđ—šđ—˛đ˜€đ˜đ—ŋ𝗮 𝗟đ—ļđ—ģđ—ŧ 𝗟𝗮𝗰𝗲𝗱𝗲𝗹𝗹đ—ļ, đ—ŧđ—ŋ𝗲 𝟭đŸŦ.đŸŦđŸŦ

Location Sopiazes 9, 32043 in Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL)

Thanks to @edelrid_sport

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â„ī¸ Winter Basecamp Freeride

Saturday, March 1 and Sunday, March 2

Are you at the LUT? Then we look forward to seeing you at the SCARPA Spin Planet Party! 👟💙! On June 22, from 5 pm at our gym, come and meet Marco De Gasperi and the Scarpa Trail Running Team, special guest Sergio Pereira who will tell about his Patagonia Run. All accompanied by food, drinks and DJ set! đŸģ đŸĒŠ
Don't miss it, admission is free!

WARNING:

On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.

NOT TO BE MISSED.

On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.