Via Nikibi ai Lastoi de Formin
Route opened on Marcella Tower by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander.
Route opened on Marcella Tower by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander.

Characteristics of the route:
The nine-pitch route offers beautiful, fun and technical climbing on excellent, well gripped rock, not to be underestimated some very challenging pitches!
It presents 6c max - 6a obligatory passages.
The route is equipped all with fixes in an excellent manner.
Equipment:
13 quickdraws, some webbing, 2 friends for protection on the last pitch.
Directions:
Mountain group: Lastoi de Formin.
Marcella Tower
Slope: West.
Toward the end and lower part of the Lastoi de Formin an isolated tower with a thumb-shaped top distinguishes the Marcella Tower. The tower is named after the great Cortina squirrel mountaineer "Bibi" Luigi Ghedina, who first climbed it.
Approach: about 1 hour.
Along the road to Passo Giau you will notice a road sign on the left indicating San Vito di Cadore, just past the sign is a parking lot from where you can see the tower. By wooded path marked with cairns you reach the steep scree slope that leads straight under the wall to the starting point of the route.
Descent: about 1.30 hr.
Follow eastward the sharp, crumbly ridge to the large plateau. By trail tracks and cairns northward in about 30 minutes to the large stony gully that leads directly to the base of the tower. Return to the parking lot by ascent path.
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Report on the ascent route via Nikibi:
L1 38m 5a/b
Starts with an overhanging section (gray fix), then difficulties drop to the belay on small terrace (some normal pegs).
L2 15m 2nd grade
Transfer pitch to access the tower's beautiful vertical slabs.
L3 25m 6a+
Slab pitch with a few challenging meters before the belay on small ledge.
L4 35m 6a
Pitch with athletic, overhanging start with a nice gray slab. Toward the end slant slightly right to the belay.
L5 30m 5b
To the right of the belay a beautiful gray-black, slightly sloping slab offers fun climbing on small but sharp holds.
L6 35m 6b/c
Key endurance pitch on vertical slab with small holds at the start and a sequence of not-always-good holes before reaching the belay.
L7 40m 6a
Nice long, continuous pitch with overcoming a small overhang before the belay.
L8 35m 6a+
Challenging pitch, just above the belay a gentle traverse to the right, then straight up to a convenient ledge.
L9 25m 3-4th grade
Easy pitch, however to be approached with care given the rock is not always compact and the lack of protection.
Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym
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Thanks to @edelrid_sport

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