La Belle Époque Street at Lastoi de Formin
Route opened on Marcella Tower by Mario Dibona Moro solo.
Characteristics of the route:
The route is located on the gray wall to the left of the Marcella Tower along a vertical placade grooved by 2 cracks. The climbing mostly follows a series of cracks from start to finish.
The special feature of the route is that the difficulties are constant until a meter from the top, after which you reach a wonderful grassy plateau.
It presents 6b+ max - obligatory passages of 6a.
The route is equipped all with fixes in an excellent manner.
Equipment:
12 quickdraws, webbing, friends.
Directions:
Mountain group: Lastoi de Formin.
Marcella Tower
Slope: West.
Towards the end and lower part of the Lastoi de Formin an isolated tower with a thumb-shaped top distinguishes the Marcella Tower. The tower was named after the great Cortina mountaineer Scoiattolo "Bibi" Luigi Ghedina, who first climbed it.
Approach: about 1.30 hour.
Along the road to Passo Giau you will notice a road sign on the left indicating San Vito di Cadore, just after the sign is a parking lot from where you can see the tower. By wooded path marked by cairns you reach the steep scree slope that leads straight under the face of the tower. When you reach the base of the Marcella Tower, climb up the left gully for about 200 meters to the marked crack/camber (fix with cord).
Descent: about 1.30 hours.
Traverse in a northeasterly direction until meeting trail trace and marker cairns to the beginning of the large stony gully that leads directly to the base of the tower. Return to the parking area by ascent path.
Report on the ascent route via La Belle Époque:
L1 28m 5a
Crack/channel pitch to the belay that is on the left on a slab.
L2 35m 5c
Gentle pitch, overhanging at first, but well protected on yellow rock not always solid.
L3 30m 5b
Grey slab pitch.
L4 35m 5a
Traverse left to face a dulfer on gray/yellow dihedral.
L5 15m 5c
Short but delicate traverse pitch to the left.
L6 30m 6b+/A0
Key pitch in slab and crack with overcoming a small cracked overhang difficult to interpret.
L7 30m 6a+
Nice vertical pitch always sustained to the end of the route.
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On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.
NOT TO BE MISSED.
On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.