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Via Gugo al Castelletto

Route opened on Castelletto by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.

Characteristics of the route:

Beautiful route on Mount Castelletto, scene of hard battles during the 1914/18 World Conflict. The route follows a crack/dihedral that climbs to the summit, offering beautiful, varied climbing on mostly good rock.
It presents 6a+ max - obligatory steps of 5c.
The route is equipped with fixes and normal pitons excellently.

Equipment:

12 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.

Directions:

Mountain group: Tofane.
Mount Castelletto.
Slope: west.

Approach: about 1.30 hour.
From the square of the old red cantoniera house, Magistrato delle Acque, a few km before Passo del Falzarego, follow the trail to Forcella Col dei Bos. From the fork by trail tracks continue in the direction of Travenanzes, then climb right to a large cubic boulder just below the Castelletto wall. Skirt the wall in an easterly direction to a small clearing with cairn (piton with red lanyard 4 m from the base).

Descent: about 1.30 hours.
From the summit, descend into the scree gully for about 15 m, then on the north side of the wall, to the left of the gully, behind the edge, are the bolts for the 40 m rappel. When you reach the wide gully you descend by gravel path until you take an ironed section that leads to the base of the wall.

Report on the ascent route via Gugo:

L1 40m 5a
Start immediately vertical to the red lanyard to reach a large debris ledge to be careful of.

L2 35m 5b/5c
Varied crack pitch until you get under a small roof which you pass to the right, watch out for unstable rock at the exit (4m), follows nice rock until you reach the belay.

L3 30m 5a
From the belay climb straight up for a few meters, then veer left into the large dihedral.

L4 30m 5b
Beautiful dihedral with wonderful rock to the belay (shared with an old route). There are some old pitons along the pitch, specially left as a historical reminder of classic mountaineering.

L5 25m 6a+/A0
Challenging pitch requiring strength over an overhanging crack. Very close bolts with possibility of A0.

L6 30m 5a
Pitched in nice yellow rock crack until you reach a convenient belay.

L7 30m 5b
Nice pitch up vertical wall and slabs to a very exposed belay.

L8 40m 5b/5c
Follow the crack-dihedral leading to the summit, passing a small roof halfway up the pitch.

YOU NEED INFO OR WANT TO MAKE A RESERVATION

Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym

Are you at the LUT? Then we look forward to seeing you at the SCARPA Spin Planet Party! 👟💙! On June 22, from 5 pm at our gym, come and meet Marco De Gasperi and the Scarpa Trail Running Team, special guest Sergio Pereira who will tell about his Patagonia Run. All accompanied by food, drinks and DJ set! 🍻 🪩
Don't miss it, admission is free!

WARNING:

On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.

NOT TO BE MISSED.

On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.