
Characteristics of the route:
Pleasant and very articulated 12-pitch route with nice initial slabs and a splendid dihedral halfway up. The last four pitches are in common with the Ada route.
It presents 6a max - obligatory passages of 5b.
The route is equipped with fixes and normal pitons excellently.
Equipment:
13 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.
Directions:
Mountain group: Fanis.
Mount Col dei Bos
Slope: South.
Approach: about 45 minutes.
From the forecourt of the Strobel restaurant, take the marked trail to the base of the Falzarego Towers. Continue skirting the base of the south face of Col dei Bos to a marked scree. The route begins about 30 meters above the scree (writing, bolts and cordon visible).
Descent: about 1 hour.
From the summit, ascend the grassy plateau westward to the marked Via Ferrata degli Alpini trail. Follow this trail along the Ra Nona channel to the parking area.
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Report on the ascent route via Gaudeamus:
L1 30m 5b
Gray slab pitch well gripped on excellent rock.
L2 35m 5c
Still on slab but with some more vertical and technical sections, near the end, below a ledge, veer left to the somewhat hidden belay.
L3 55m 4a
Very long pitch in slight traverse to the left, easy but poorly protected, until below the vertical yellow/gray wall (pay attention).
L4 20m 6a/A0
Short but challenging pitch in overcoming a vertical yellow wall, delicate right traverse before the belay.
L5 30m III°
Transfer pitch from one wall to the other with a long horizontal crossing on crumbly rock (two bolts).
L6 30m 5b
Crumbly but easy start, technical passage before taking a nice leaning slab.
L7 45m 5c
Beautiful dihedral pitch on gorgeous gray rock.
L8 40m 5a
Once you pass the yellow crack you deviate to the right encountering a belay, you can continue straight ahead passing a small overhang without protection, and then arrive at the cemented pitons of the Ada route.
L9 40m 4a (Ada Way)
Start in crack then continue on slab to a gravelly gully with large cemented piton.
L10 45m 5b/A0 (Ada Route)
Very slippery vertical start especially for the feet, possibility to put the foot on the big stirrup. Continue on slab to the beginning of a yellow crack.
L11 40m 5a (Ada route)
Climb up a series of cracks/dihedral until below a small overhang that is more easily overcome to the right.
L12 35m 4a (Ada Way)
Last crack/channel pitch to the grassy top of the wall.
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