The Fante di Cuori route is dedicated to all the young infantrymen who, during World War I, lost their lives fighting on the Dolomite front, many of them in the Lagazuoi area. This mountain was, in fact, the scene of intense fighting for control of the highest peaks and valleys below. Countless bunkers, trenches and a dense network of tunnels were built, many of which can still be visited today.
The route route is eight pitches and offers beautiful, fun and technical climbing on excellent rock, not to be underestimated some very challenging pitches!
It presents 6c+ max with two A0 - 6b obligatory passages.
The route is equipped all with excellent fixes.
12 quickdraws, three medium/small fiends, some webbing, two 60-meter ropes for possible rappelling.
Mountain group: Fanis - Lagazuoi
Approach: about 30 minutes.
From the parking lot of the Lagazuoi cable car, head for the wall exactly below the cable car cables, aiming for an obvious yellow shield marked in the middle with a black line.
Attack: climbing up a gray ramp to the right of a large yellow overhang. Name written in red at the base.
Descent: about 45 minutes.
At the exit of the route take a right along the Cengia Martini until you meet the Lagazuoi Tunnels Trail, which leads back to the cable car parking area.
Report on the ascent route via Knave of Hearts:
L1 38m 6a
Climb the ramp to the right to a large wedged boulder, from here with delicate traverse to the left first and overcoming a vertical crack later, you reach the belay.
L2 20m 6a+
Climb over the overhang just above the belay and then slightly left over worked rock to the belay.
L3 35m 6c
Immediately above the belay by holes and notches to a gray overhang that you pass directly with an athletic passage, then slightly to the right and then climb following the sequence of handholds to the belay that you reach after passing a yellow dihedral.
L4 20m 6b+
From the belay traverse right 5 meters on good holds until you reach an overhanging crack that you climb exiting, with a gentle movement, to the right at the belay right in the black line.
L5 28m 6c and two steps A0
Left of the belay get up and enter a difficult yellow slab that you climb on small notches to where the difficulties drop slightly and lead to the belay.
L6 30m 6c+
Climb up to a black overhang that you climb directly over and then continue to the belay.
L7 30m 6b
Climb up a dihedral and then over slabs to the right of a deep crack to the belay.
L8 35m 4a
From the belay climb a little and then go around a ledge on the right and continue to the belay placed on a large boulder on the Martini ledge.
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On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.