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Via Cassin to the Cima Piccola di Lavaredo

Route opened in August 1934 by Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Pozzi and Gigi Vitali.

Features:

Beautiful climbing route at Cima Piccola di Lavaredo. A classic, very logical route that climbs up the yellow, overhanging face of Piccolissima for challenging climbing, especially if done free. Several pitons are present on the route and the belays are all bolted.
It presents V-VI grade and A0 (free climbing VII-).

Equipment:

15 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friend set.
2 ropes 60 meters.

Directions:

Mountain group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Cima Piccola di Lavaredo.
Face: southeast.
Climbing time : about 4 hours
Wall height difference: 380 meters

Approach: about 35 minutes
From the large parking lot of the Auronzo Hut, follow the dirt road that leads to the Lavaredo Hut, from where you can see the ascent route perfectly.
Climb up by trail to below the wall

Descent
From the top you rappel down to the base on cemented pitons. Be careful that ropes don't get stuck in cracks and rock fall!!!

 

Report on the Via Cassin ascent route to the Cima Piccola di Lavaredo:

L1 45 m, IV+, V, IV, 2 pegs
Climb the yellowish dihedral to a first terrace, then via a crack you reach a second, scree-like one, at the base of which are two belay pegs.

L2 30 m, IV, V+, VI- or V and A0, 7 pegs
From the belay traverse right to another dihedral to climb up to the belay placed on a small terrace.

L3 25 m, V+, VII- or V+ and A0, VI, V, 4 pitons, 1 jammed friend
Climb to the first piton just above the belay, after which bend left in the direction of a piton with a white lanyard, useful for resetting. Ignore the pitons going up the vertical, this is a more difficult variant, and instead move a little more to the left, entering a chimney that you climb a few meters to a small terrace, from which traverse right to reach the belay.

L4 20 m, VI+ or V+ and A0, VI, 7 pegs
Continue vertically, aiming at the overhanging overhang, past which continue through cracks, bringing you above a large detached blade where you belay.

L5 30 m, V+, VI-, V, 5 pitons
From the very exposed belay climb for a few meters to a piton with old webbing, then taking advantage of an excellent hand crack, begin the long traverse to the left that leads to the base of an obvious pillar (ignore the pitons going up because they are from another route). Then climb for a few meters up the dihedral formed by the pillar going to belay on a small ledge.

L6 15 m, V, V+, 2 pegs
With nice split, climb the dihedral entirely back up to the top of the pillar where you belay.

L7 30 m, IV, 1 step of V, 1 piton
Traverse to the left, in the direction of Punta Frida, going around the edge beyond which the rock becomes gray, then continuing over simpler, more articulated rocks to a wide terrace where you belay on two pitons.

L8 35 m, IV, 1 step of V+
Without an obligatory route, from the belay climb slanting left along cracks and blades to a convenient terrace where a belay is rigged.

L9 and L10 60 m, IV, IV+
Follow the ledge to the left to an obvious chimney. Climb it in a split coming out on its left face. Then by easy rocks to the summit, where the belay is on cemented piton with large ring.

YOU NEED INFO OR WANT TO MAKE A RESERVATION

Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym

đ—ĸ𝗛𝗛𝗠𝗘𝗚𝗔 𝗧đ—ŧ𝘂đ—ŋ - đ—Ĩ𝗲𝘁đ—ĩđ—ļđ—ģ𝗸 đ—¯đ—˛đ—šđ—Žđ˜†đ—ļđ—ģ𝗴đ—ĸ𝗛𝗠𝗘𝗚𝗔 đ—¯đ—˛đ—šđ—Žđ˜†đ—ļđ—ģ𝗴

𝗧đ—ļ 𝗮𝘀đ—Ŋ𝗲𝘁𝘁đ—ļ𝗮đ—ēđ—ŧ 𝗱đ—ŧđ—ē𝗲đ—ģđ—ļ𝗰𝗮 𝟭đŸĩ đ—ŧ𝘁𝘁đ—ŧđ—¯đ—ŋ𝗲, đ—Ŗđ—Žđ—šđ—˛đ˜€đ˜đ—ŋ𝗮 𝗟đ—ļđ—ģđ—ŧ 𝗟𝗮𝗰𝗲𝗱𝗲𝗹𝗹đ—ļ, đ—ŧđ—ŋ𝗲 𝟭đŸŦ.đŸŦđŸŦ

Location Sopiazes 9, 32043 in Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL)

Thanks to @edelrid_sport

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â„ī¸ Winter Basecamp Freeride

Saturday, March 1 and Sunday, March 2

Are you at the LUT? Then we look forward to seeing you at the SCARPA Spin Planet Party! 👟💙! On June 22, from 5 pm at our gym, come and meet Marco De Gasperi and the Scarpa Trail Running Team, special guest Sergio Pereira who will tell about his Patagonia Run. All accompanied by food, drinks and DJ set! đŸģ đŸĒŠ
Don't miss it, admission is free!

WARNING:

On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.

NOT TO BE MISSED.

On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.