
Features:
The new climbing route at Croda da Lago, follows a beautiful, logical line up the left trapezium of the large lower rampart on slabs, dihedrals and cracks to the large grassy ledge. The rock quality is excellent and offers pleasant and safe climbing.
The route is fully equipped with fixes.
Equipment:
10 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends, 60-meter rope.
Directions:
Mountain group: Croda da Lago.
Left trapezius of the Croda da Lago.
Slope: east.
Approach: 20 minutes from the Croda da Lago Refuge.
From the refuge follow the dirt road that leads to the Ambrizzola pass. After about 10 to 15 minutes of walking, turn right to climb a grassy slope that leads below the wall.
The shortest route to the refuge, is along trail No. 437 (later No. 434), which begins at Ponte di Ru Curto, which is along the road leading to Passo Giau. The route can be covered in about 2 hours.
On the other hand, for those who want to get comfortably to the Croda da Lago Refuge, a jeep service is available, which, with a minimum of 4 people, costs âŦ25 per person, round trip.
Descent
This is done by traversing the large grassy ledge northward (exiting the route to the right), until you glimpse a large rift overlooking the lake. With 2 25-meter rappels you reach a new ledge, which you traverse for about 50 meters, still heading north, until the next 4 25-meter rappels, which lead back to the base of the wall (WARNING: after the first two rappels you should not descend straight down, where you see a spit with a lanyard).
For the return you then follow the approach route.
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Claudia route climbing route report:
Croda da Lago has always aroused a lot of mountaineering interest, as early as the late 1800s the Ampezzo Mountain Guides used to take many clients to the sharp peaks of this mountain. They would leave Cortina at first light and, on foot, reach the small hut adjacent to the beautiful alpine lake, then climb the Innerkofler Tower or the Federa Tower.
Today, these peaks are no longer as popular with climbers, yet the beauty of this place is definitely worth a visit.
Mountain Guide Carlo Alverà , son of the refuge manager, has equipped many sport pitches on beautiful rock, ranging from 6a to 7b.
The lengths of the Via Claudia
L1 25m 5b
Climb straight up to a small overhang (fix), then continue, slanting to the left, to the chain belay.
L2 28m 5c
From the belay climb straight up to a nice, smooth, compact slab that is passed directly. Belay on wide ledge.
L3 15m 4a
Short pitch leading to the base of a series of dihedrals - cracks.
L4 28m 5c
Beautiful and elegant dihedral climbing - vertical crack.
L5 35m 5a
One more short dihedral section then climb up the right wall of the large jagged crack to below a dark, sloping slab.
L6 35m 4b
Pleasant climbing on well gripped sloping slab to large gingery where, to the right, belay on a bolt to be supplemented with a friend.
To take the seventh pitch you have to move to the right about 15 meters along the ledge to below some black rocks, the only weak point of the big yellow wall.
L7 20m 6a A0
Start on somewhat crumbly rock (resettable), with gentle traverse to the left, then climb straight up good rock to the belay.
L8 30m 5c
Delicate climbing with flared crack until you enter the gully leading to the top of the trapeze. Belay on 2 fixes on large boulder.
Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym
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Thanks to @edelrid_sport

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