Features

Beautiful ten-pitch route. It offers highly satisfying, sustained and very varied climbing on splendid yellow rock. It climbs in a continuous alternation of dihedrals, slabs and overhangs, always in total safety because of the close protections.
It presents 6b max.
The route is equipped with excellent fixes and a few pitons.

Equipment

15 quickdraws, webbing, medium friends.

Directions

Mountain group: Lastoi de Formin.
Spiz de Mondeval
Slope: South.

The route is located near Forcella Giau towards the Mondeval plateau, one of the most beautiful and sunny places in Cortina. The view is wonderful with Mount Pelmo in the foreground, followed by Mount Civetta and Marmolada on the right.

Approach: about 1 hour.
From Passo Giau take the well-marked trail to the southeast that leads to Forcella Giau. Arriving at the fork by trail traces and cairns, you are brought to the center of the large south face. The King Arthur inscription is visible at the base.

Descent: about 2.30 hours.
From the summit descend north until you glimpse a gully on the right with red markings indicating rappel belays (4 rappels of 25 meters). When the rappels are finished, skirt the wall and return to the route's attack (about 1.30 hours).

Report on the climbing route via King Arthur:

L1 30m 6a
Plaque pitch with a nontrivial overhanging landscape at first. Convenient belay shifted slightly to the right from the vertical.

L2 30m 6a+
Overhanging, beautiful and athletic pitch, always on good holds on yellow rock.

L3 27m 5b
Slab climbing with a gentle traverse to the right, belay on convenient terrace.

L4 40m 5a/b
Vertical start for a few meters then easier climbing until below a huge boulder that you pass to the left.

L5 28m 5b
Pitched over spectacular yellow dihedral with exit to the right, a small cracked overhang must be overcome before the belay.

L6 50m 6b
Key pitch along a wonderful gray slab to below a huge roof. Delicate oblique to the right at the beginning of the pitch.

L7 30m 6a
Climb directly up the yellow wall between the 2 roofs following a nice blade. With a traverse to the right under the roof you reach the belay on comfortable ledge.

L8 38m 6b
Vertical pitch with challenging slightly overhanging start. Follow a jagged crack to a fix on the right before the belay.

L9 35m 6a+
Varied pitch with small but not trivial overhanging slabs and bellies.

L10 40m 5b
Follow the wide crack to the summit. Normal pitons along the pitch. Stop on a bolt before the summit, possibility of the rope dropping dangerous rocks.