Via Words and Thoughts at Tofane
Route opened on Torrione Zesta by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascรจ.
Route opened on Torrione Zesta by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascรจ.

Characteristics of the route:
Torrione Zesta is a beautiful, somewhat isolated and little-known sunny face. The climbing is sustained and vertical from the first to the last pitch and is on mostly excellent gray-yellow rock. The key passage is on the last pitch. From the summit, to reach Ra Valles, you have to cross a friable ridge and a 2nd grade scree gully. Pay attention!
Presents 6b max - obligatory steps of 5c.
The route is equipped with fixes and normal pitons, bolts belays.
Equipment:
14 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.
Directions:
Mountain group: Tofane
Tofana di Mezzo - Torrione Zesta
Slope: Southeast.
Torrione Zesta can be seen on the right as you ascend on the Arrow in the Sky cable car, just before the Ra Valles top station.
Approach, two possibilities:
1) By taking the Arrow in the Sky cable car up to Ra Valles, about 40 minutes.
From the station, descend along the trail along the ski slope to the base of the wall.
2) From Piรจ Tofana parking lot, about 1.20 hours.
Follow the ski slope down from Ra Valles to the trail markers leading to Forcella Rossa, then head down to below the wall, always visible from below.
Descent, two possibilities:
1) By cable car about 40 minutes.
Exit the route to the upper station of the Arrow in the Sky cable car.
2) By trail about 1.30 hr.
Exit the route and descend along the trail that skirts the ski slope to Piรจ Tofana.
ย
Report on the ascent route via Words and Thoughts:
L1 35m 5b
The route attacks from a grassy pitch with a lanyard at the base. After the first easy rock drop, cut left and, past the edge, enter the dihedral for a few meters and then exit and point a second clearly visible lanyard on the beautiful gray slab. Proceed to the belay that is on the edge, on the left.
L2 25m 6a+
Slanted pitch to the left with technical and delicate climbing. Belay on large hourglass with rope.
L3 40m 5c
To the left of the belay climb a few meters up a slab (piton), cross to the right and then face a small, well gripped overhang.
L4 28m 6a
Slant pitch to the left on gray-yellow slab, nice climbing on small notches. Belay on ledge.
L5 50m 5c
Very long varied pitch in slab and dihedral. From belay, 1m right to climb over first small overhang. Left to enter dihedral and then continue on slab to belay on grassy sod.
L6 30m 5a
Varied pitch with nice initial slab.
L7 30m 6a+/A0
Challenging slightly overhanging pitch that is overcome on the right with a nice blocking on a somewhat flared hold.
L8 30m 6a/6b/A0
Athletic vertical pitch with a definite stretch to get to the beautiful upper horizontal hold.
Contact us now by calling the Cortina 360 climbing gym
What are you looking for?
Thanks to @edelrid_sport

Are you at the LUT? Then we look forward to seeing you at the SCARPA Spin Planet Party! ๐๐! On June 22, from 5 pm at our gym, come and meet Marco De Gasperi and the Scarpa Trail Running Team, special guest Sergio Pereira who will tell about his Patagonia Run. All accompanied by food, drinks and DJ set! ๐ป ๐ชฉ
Don't miss it, admission is free!
On Saturday, March 4, the Gymnasium and Guide Bar will close at 7:00 p.m.

On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.