Characteristics of the route:

Ten-pitch route in classic and modern style, very varied in climbing features dihedrals, cracks, vertical slabs. The rock is almost always good except in some sections where care must be taken.
It presents 6c+ max - obligatory passages of 6a.
The route is equipped with fixes with some pitons.

Equipment:

14 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.

Directions:

Mountain group: Nuvolau.
Ra Gusela di Giau
Slope: Southeast.

Towards the end and lower part of the Lastoi de Formin an isolated tower with a thumb-shaped top distinguishes the Marcella Tower. The tower was named after the great Cortina mountaineer Scoiattolo "Bibi" Luigi Ghedina, who first climbed it.

Approach: about 30 minutes.
From Passo Giau follow the flat path northward to below the large overhanging yellow pillar. By rope-equipped rock jumps you reach a wide grassy ledge to the left of the large pillar.

Descent, two possibilities:
1) By trail about 1 hour (recommended).
When you reach the top of Gusela, descend north along a nice trail that leads to the easy Nuvolau via ferrata. Still by easy path to the right you will reach the Giau Pass.

2) Abseiling about 1.20 hours.
From the antecedent descend a few meters and see the ropes to make the 3 30-meter abseils. Arrived at the large ledge, skirt the wall downhill on landslide terrain to the rappels leading into the large gully. By traces of old path you return to the pass.

Report on the climbing route via Mom and Dad:

L1 35m 6a
The route starts left of the large pillar (fix at the base) along a gray dihedral/slit. For the first few meters climb along the edge of the pillar to enter the nice dihedral with a delicate overhanging passage (possible to supplement with medium friend).

L2 25m 5b
Climb along a yellow crack for about 10 meters, veer right to reach a convenient ledge with many pitons.

L3 18m 6c
Key traverse pitch right on vertical slab with a few flared holds and a few holds. Cords help to get through this section in A0.

L4 38m 6a
Always dihedral/crack climbing with a challenging overhanging section (normal piton upper left).

L5 40m 5a
From the belay (be careful not to climb straight up for more bolts) climb left up grassy ramp to point to a boulder embedded in blade-shaped crack.

L6 30m 5b
Nice very varied and articulated pitch. Still by crack/dihedral to a balcony, a fix on the left takes us to the overhanging belay on large sloping ledge.

L7 45m 6a+
Gentle slab pitch on small holds. From the belay cross the sloping ledge to the left until below the slab. The rock on this pitch is not always compact, especially at the exit there are many unstable boulders, pay attention!
From the large ledge you can exit the route by following, to the right, the route of the rappels.

L8 40m 5c
Very nice and varied pitch with an athletic start and, toward the end of the long pitch, a nice, well gripped vertical section. Belay on comfortable ledge.

L9 30m 5b
The pitch goes over a wide black crack that forms a kind of black cave.
From the belay, past the first vertical meters, walk on a gravelly ledge until below the crack. The first meters are crumbly but well protected, while the exit from the "cave" is nice and pleasant.

L10 15m 3rd grade
By easy rock jumps you reach the anticima of Gusela del Nuvolau.