Via Brigida at Col dei Bos

Route opened on the Col dei Bos Triangle by Mario Dibona Moro with Armando Nascè.


Interesting route, ideal for tackling on somewhat uncertain days. The route is varied with a nice 25-meter traverse at the start. The rock is good.
It presents 6a+ max - obligatory passages of 5b.
The route is equipped with fixes and some pitons excellently.


10 quickdraws, lanyards and webbing, friends.


Mountain group: Fanis.
Col dei Bos Triangle
Slope: South.

Approach: about 45 minutes.
From the parking lot of the old cantoniera house of the Magistrato delle Acque, a few km before Passo Falzarego, take the path leading to Forcella Col Dei Bos. When you reach the tunnel, climb left up a steep path to below the wall where there is a large cairn and a piton at the base.

Descent: about 1.30 hour.
Descend in 4 x 30m rappels along the sloping west face. The doubles are a little to the right and a little to the left; be careful in locating rappel belays.


Report on the Via Brigida ascent route:

L1 40m 6a
The start immediately presents a vertical passage and then continues with the long, technical traverse.

L2 25m 5b
Short pitch with belay on large grassy terrace full of edelweiss.

L3 35m 5b
Climb the sloping gray slab until you enter a wide yellow crack, which you overcome with an overhanging passage.

L4 35m 5c
Peculiar and nontrivial pitch that is made by passing a wide slanted crack.

L5 30m 6a
Beautiful pitch that develops first in slab and then in dihedral.

L6 20m 6a+/A0
From the belay immediately the key passage, a challenging overhanging pitch to force through, then the pitch develops on nice grippy slab.


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On Saturday, Feb. 25, Simone Moro will be the star of the evening Speaker Series at the Alexander Hall cinema in Cortina d'Ampezzo, at 7 p.m., during which the exploits of the Bergamasque mountaineer from the Himalayas to Manaslu will be retraced, with a profound reflection on how his vision of mountaineering has changed over the years. Don't miss the opportunity to attend this FREE event.